Grow Your Own Xmas Tree Kit: Indoor Holiday Forest in 12 Weeks

What you need

Step-by-step instructions for growing your own holiday tree kit

Here's how to turn your kit into a lush indoor forest—ready for the holidays.

Start by filling each of your 4 seedling trays with the 20 pounds of pre-moistened peat moss included in your kit. Gently press the moss down with your fingers until it's firm but still light—think of it like fluffy snow packed just enough to hold its shape. This creates the perfect airy environment for your tiny trees to grow strong roots.

I like to run my finger through the moss to create shallow furrows about ¼ inch deep. These little grooves help guide the seeds to the right depth without burying them too deeply. If the moss feels dry in spots, mist it lightly with the seedling spray bottle—just enough to dampen it, not soak it.

Carefully open each seed packet and tap it gently to release the seeds—2 per cell in your trays. The kit includes 4 varieties, so I recommend labeling each tray with the type (like "Blue Spruce" or "Douglas Fir") using the small plant markers. This ensures you'll know exactly which tree is which when they mature.

Press each seed ¼ inch deep into the furrows you made. Cover them lightly with a pinch of moss—just enough to hide them but not bury them completely. The key here is consistency: too deep, and they'll struggle to break through; too shallow, and they'll dry out. A good rule is to cover them with about twice the width of the seed itself.

Place the trays under the humidity dome that came with your kit. This little clear cover is a game-changer—it keeps the seeds warm and moist, just like a greenhouse. Fill the reservoir tray with 1 cup of water and let it wick up through the moss. You’ll know it’s working when the inside of the dome starts to fog up slightly.

Set the dome in a spot with indirect light—think near a window with sheer curtains. Too much direct sun now will overheat the seeds, while too little light will slow germination. Check the water level every 2-3 days and top it off as needed. You’ll see the first tiny sprouts in about 7-10 days, but don’t rush to remove the dome yet.

Once the seedlings have their first true leaves (not just the initial cotyledons), it’s time to start acclimating them. Remove the humidity dome for 1-2 hours a day, gradually increasing the time over 7-10 days. This helps them toughen up for life outside the dome. During this time, move the trays to a spot with bright, indirect light—like a south-facing window with a sheer curtain.

If you notice the leaves looking pale or the stems stretching toward the light (a sign of "legginess"), it’s time to adjust. Either move the trays closer to the light or add a grow light for 12-14 hours a day. Strong seedlings will have thick stems and dark green leaves spaced close together. Weak ones will be tall, thin, and pale—like a toothpick with a few leaves.

After 12 weeks, your tiny trees will be ready to move into their individual 5-gallon pots included in the kit. Gently remove each seedling, keeping the root ball intact, and place it in the center of the pot. Fill the pot with the remaining 10 pounds of potting mix, pressing lightly around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom.

Your holiday forest is now ready for display! Place the pots in a cool (60-65°F) but bright spot—like a sunny windowsill or under grow lights. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, and fertilize every 4-6 weeks with the balanced fertilizer included in your kit. With proper care, these trees can live for years, becoming a cherished holiday tradition.

Tips & tricks for perfect indoor holiday tree growth

Growing your own holiday trees is easier than you think—here's how to avoid common pitfalls and maximize success.

Soil Preparation: The 20 pounds of pre-moistened peat moss should be fluffy but firm when pressed. If it feels too dry after packing, use the seedling spray bottle to lightly mist just the surface—you don't want it soggy, just consistently damp. I've found that running my finger through the moss to create those shallow furrows makes all the difference in keeping seeds properly positioned without over-burying them. This simple step prevents uneven germination across your trays.

Seed Placement: Those 2 seeds per cell might seem like overkill, but it accounts for germination rates that can vary by variety. If you're worried about overcrowding, you can gently remove the weaker seedling once both have sprouted and developed their first true leaves. The ¼-inch depth guideline is critical—press the seeds just deep enough so they're covered but not buried, and use the "twice the seed width" rule as your visual cue. This ensures roots develop properly without struggling to reach the surface.

Humidity Dome Care: The 1 cup of water in the reservoir tray should create just enough moisture for the dome to fog slightly—this is your visual confirmation that humidity levels are ideal. I've learned the hard way that checking water every 2-3 days is non-negotiable. The dome creates a greenhouse effect, and if the water evaporates completely, your seeds will dry out before they sprout. The slight fogging is your best indicator that everything's working as it should during those critical first 7-10 days.

Light Transition: When you start removing the humidity dome for those 1-2 hours daily, begin with just 30 minutes and watch your seedlings closely. The gradual increase over 7-10 days prevents shock while still helping them develop stronger stems. If you notice leggy growth (that toothpick-like stretching), it's your cue to either move the trays closer to the light source or supplement with grow lights for 12-14 hours daily. This adjustment prevents weak stems that can't support themselves when mature.